After 17 days of sailing from Mexico, we made landfall in Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia.
We were welcomed by fragrant smells of flowers and ripe mango. The lush green cliffs turn into gushing waterfalls when the rain showers come. These are usually a welcome change to the otherwise baking sun. One of my favorite memories of our time in this remote island group was when I got stranded at the town soccer field/ playground in a 2 hour torrential downpour and the kids and I got in a line and jogged the 30 minutes back to the dinghy, laughing and giggling the whole way. They are like my own little cross country team!
We visited four islands, Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva, Tahuata and Nuku Hiva. This video shows the highlights of our three weeks of exploring.
Hiva Oa, Atuona: check in with the gendarme, provision fresh stuff, guided all day tour with Yoan with Kaoha Excursions (https://www.kaohaexcursion.com/) to I’ipona cultural site in Puama’u, Gauguin Museum, lunch out, ice cream!
Fatu Hiva, Hanavave: anchoring a challenge and dragging boats, windy, 1 hour hike to Vaieenui Waterfall and swimming hole, 1 hour hike up steep single lane switchback road to viewpoint, soccer ashore.
Tahuata, Hanamoenoa: great water clarity, manta rays, snorkeling, beach play, no village just other cruising boats, had a water taxi deliver us fresh produce and eggs, finally met up with SV Impossible and SV Terikah!
Tahuata, Hapatoni: day stop, hike along road to Vaitahu for views of the boat in the bay.
Tahuata, Vaitahu: sleepy town, ate ashore, sketchy dinghy access at a surgy pier.
Nuku Hiva, Anaho: snorkeling in murky water but there are corals, fish and another octopus. Hike over the ridge to Hatiehu town, cold drinks, ice cream and restaurant lunch. Hike east to beautiful and exposed Haatuatua beach with lots of fishing and plastic trash including a dFAD (floating aggregation device) beacon. Kids and adults playing on wind and foil toys for numerous days!
Nuku Hiva, Taiohae: we provisioned for the next 6 weeks, topped off diesel tanks with 18 jerry cans (almost 100 gallons), bought Coral a pareo, and rented a car for a full day driving tour of the interior and Controleur Bay.
Nuku Hiva, Daniel’s Bay: a spectacular setting with lush cliffs surrounding the anchorage and along the hike to Vaipo waterfall. Walked an ancient stone path and passed many tikis and stone platforms.
Meet the Millers 