Part 21: North Island of New Zealand

We had so many wonderful experiences during our 3 months in New Zealand that we have split it into two videos. This first video is of our time in the North Island. We celebrated birthdays, New Year’s Eve in Auckland, Christmas on Kawau Island and American Thanksgiving in Whangarei. Family and friends flew across the globe to share with us an appreciation of New Zealand’s natural beauty and friendly people.

https://youtu.be/qsr5E6OAMC8

Part 21: New Zealand North Island

At the end of our time in New Zealand we packaged Lyrae up and shipped her home to Orcas Island. The Miller 6 flew home February 2025 to catch a good ski season in the Pacific Northwest. The kids are back in school and we are very happy and busy with music, sports, dance and community. We wish you well in the holiday season and hope you enjoy this latest video that the kids have edited. Hopefully part 22 of the South Island will not take another year to edit!

Our 2026 adventure will take us to Nepal for the entire month of April to celebrate a milestone birthday for Mike! Sierra is excited to create some video logs of that adventure to document a project she is working with Forrest, Coral and Aurora on to give school supplies to children in the villages that we will pass through.

John, Eunice and Marshall flew all the way from Maine!
“School photos” from fall 2024
We stayed at Pinnacles Hut, Coromandel, for our final night in New Zealand.

Part 20: Fiji

The final stop on our Trans-Pacific adventure before making our way to New Zealand was Fiji. What an incredibly welcoming place! When you arrive at a new anchorage or island group, you present a gift to the village chief as a polite way of asking for permission to come ashore and experience the beauty. Our experience highlights included impromptu chess games with villagers, swimming with manta rays, camping in the mountainous interior, singing with local villagers, and Forrest and Sierra getting PADI Scuba certified. We loved every minute of our time in Fiji and found it hard to fit the highlights into a 10 minute video. Sierra worked hard on these edits to keep it as short as possible! We sailed through Fiji during September and October of 2024.

Forrest and Sierra snuggles on deck during our passage from Tonga to Fiji
My night watch buddies during passage from Tonga to Fiji as we threaded our way through the Lau Group at midnight. We returned to the Lau 2 weeks later after checking in at Savusavu.
Heading ashore with our visiting friends Jon and Sue at a new anchorage in the Lau Group for sevusevu, where we meet the village chief and ask for permission to visit the island.
Forrest and Sierra completed their PADI book learning, tests, and required dives in time for us all to do several dives together on Rainbow Reef and White Wall. Their course was all the same material as an adult would be required but their depth is just limited to 42 feet until they are a little older.
Lau group, Vanua Balavu Island, had some incredible hiking and views. We anchored for several days in those beautiful islands below.
Overlooking Sawa-I-Lau Caves in the Yasawas.
The three of us anchored at this wonderful spot 37 years previously, in 1987! It was so fun to revisit these locations with John and Eunice.
Savoring the views overlooking Namosi Highlands Eco Lodge

Part 16: The Tuamotus, French Polynesia

In May 2024 we explored the Tuamotus Archipelago of French Polynesia. What an amazing experience to snorkel in such a remote setting and share time with new friends. We visited Raroia, Tahanea, Fakarava and Toau atolls.

Highlights included windsurfing and octopus encounters in Raroia, drift snorkeling the passes of Tahanea, diving and snorkeling with hundreds of sharks in Fakarava, and riding on other peoples boats for day passages.

Part 14: Pamplemousse, Tikis and Waterfalls!

After 17 days of sailing from Mexico, we made landfall in Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia.

Part 14: Marquesas by the kids!

We were welcomed by fragrant smells of flowers and ripe mango. The lush green cliffs turn into gushing waterfalls when the rain showers come. These are usually a welcome change to the otherwise baking sun. One of my favorite memories of our time in this remote island group was when I got stranded at the town soccer field/ playground in a 2 hour torrential downpour and the kids and I got in a line and jogged the 30 minutes back to the dinghy, laughing and giggling the whole way. They are like my own little cross country team!

We visited four islands, Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva, Tahuata and Nuku Hiva. This video shows the highlights of our three weeks of exploring.

Landfall at daybreak after 17 days at sea

Hiva Oa, Atuona: check in with the gendarme, provision fresh stuff, guided all day tour with Yoan with Kaoha Excursions (https://www.kaohaexcursion.com/) to I’ipona cultural site in Puama’u, Gauguin Museum, lunch out, ice cream!

This small bag of trash was all we had after 17 days at sea.

Fatu Hiva, Hanavave: anchoring a challenge and dragging boats, windy, 1 hour hike to Vaieenui Waterfall and swimming hole, 1 hour hike up steep single lane switchback road to viewpoint, soccer ashore.

Hanavave Bay or also called “Bay of Virgins” in 2024
Hanavave Bay in 1987 with sv Harmony

Tahuata, Hanamoenoa: great water clarity, manta rays, snorkeling, beach play, no village just other cruising boats, had a water taxi deliver us fresh produce and eggs, finally met up with SV Impossible and SV Terikah!

Hanamoenoa

Tahuata, Hapatoni: day stop, hike along road to Vaitahu for views of the boat in the bay.

Hapatoni

Tahuata, Vaitahu: sleepy town, ate ashore, sketchy dinghy access at a surgy pier.

Nuku Hiva, Anaho: snorkeling in murky water but there are corals, fish and another octopus. Hike over the ridge to Hatiehu town, cold drinks, ice cream and restaurant lunch. Hike east to beautiful and exposed Haatuatua beach with lots of fishing and plastic trash including a dFAD (floating aggregation device) beacon. Kids and adults playing on wind and foil toys for numerous days!

These are the visible microplastics that we found in 1 square foot of Haatuatua beach

Nuku Hiva, Taiohae: we provisioned for the next 6 weeks, topped off diesel tanks with 18 jerry cans (almost 100 gallons), bought Coral a pareo, and rented a car for a full day driving tour of the interior and Controleur Bay.

100 gallons of diesel and mikes workout for the day

Nuku Hiva, Daniel’s Bay: a spectacular setting with lush cliffs surrounding the anchorage and along the hike to Vaipo waterfall. Walked an ancient stone path and passed many tikis and stone platforms.

The “Wall of Sharks,” Fakarava

We are enjoying our final days in the Tuamotus and it has been so wonderful! We have visited Raroia, Tahanea and Fakarava Atolls. The kids will make a video but we are a little behind and I just wanted to share this snippet from just one amazing 24 hour period at the south pass of Fakarava Atoll. It’s called “the wall of sharks” and no joke, it is an unbelievable coral canyon filled with lazy swimming gray, black tip, white tip and some lemon sharks. I never thought I could enjoy a dive like this, but wow, it was incredible. The fish and water clarity on the edges of the pass were also spectacular and the kids are happy and excited to be exploring it all.

Sea Turtle Journey

It has ben six weeks since we rescued four olive ridley turtles from the Pacific Ocean nearby Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. My siblings and I have worked hard to raise money to donate to a turtle foundation in Puerto Vallarta called Encampamento Tortuguero La Boca de Tomates. We chose this organization because it is located close to where our encounter occurred and local residents recommended it. We have raised almost $600 dollars so far and still have bracelets and earrings if you’re interested in joining our community of support! 100% of the money you donate will go to the “Turtle camp.” Thank you!

We made a video that people watched to learn the story about the trapped turtles. You can watch it here. We made earrings and bracelets from the long line that the turtles were tangled in and sold them to people who could help share the story.

Our primary goal was to help raise awareness about how fishing long lines can tangle boats and animals. We hope that the money donated to La Boca de Tomates will help new young turtles have a safe and healthy life. Fun fact: Olive ridley turtles can live up to 50 years old! We learned a lot about turtles from our experience that day when we rescued the 4 olive ridleys. We appreciated that they were calm when my mom was removing the line and hooks and so happy that they swam away safely and energetically.

I am also working to earn a Girl Scouts of America Bronze Award by creating a video capturing our encounter, making jewelry to sell, and sharing our story with the people that we meet. My team for the Bronze Award includes my two younger Girl Scout Brownie sisters, Aurora and Coral, and my twin brother, Forrest, who is a Boy Scout of America Webelo.

Maybe you can help the turtles and other sea creatures by sharing this story also?

the waves of life

i love snorkeling with my mom. I like seeing all the creatures. They make me happy. I like diving down and seeing them. Then I go back to our boat and identify them. I like having hot chocolate after I go snorkeling, it makes me warm up. Then I hang up my gear so I’m ready for the next time I go snorkeling. It makes me happy 😊 🤿.

Guinea fowl puffer fish!
Guinea fowl puffer fish 
Porcupine fish 
My mom and I 
 Sunflower Seastar
Green turtle 
Parrot fish 
Dolphin 

Type of coral

Sea turtles rescued!

UPDATE! Thank you for your support! Kids have chosen a local turtle education / rescue place to give some of your donations! It’s called campamento tortuguero boca de tomates. To make direct donations to them you can PayPal nakawe.ac@gmail.com. Don’t forget to tell us if you’d like earrings or a bracelet! Hand deliver sometime during the next year would be ideal but shipping is a possibility. They are great conversation starters to help raise awareness.

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The kids made this video of four turtles that we encountered tangled in a fishing gear ball of trash. We were about 60 miles north of Punta Mita/Sayulita/La Cruz/Puerto Vallarta. We were able to remove the hooks and line from all turtles and they all seemed to be strong when they swam off. It took about 30 minutes to untangle them and thankfully the conditions were very calm and we just drifted with engines off while carefully dealing with the mess.

We believe they were Olive Ridley turtles. We saw many (~50?) this day swimming in the ocean as we motored past. I am learning that one of the challenges turtles are facing is that sea temperature is connected to if they are female or male and the warmer oceans is producing too many females for the populations to balanced appropriately.

Aurora, Coral, Forrest and Sierra are making some earrings and keychains out of the ball of hooks and line that we removed from the sea. We are planning to visit some local sea turtle sanctuary/ non-profits to learn more about these creatures and the kids hope to donate some of their savings and any profits from their creations to help support conservation efforts in the local area.

Mike and I were in a daze after the experience. It was thrilling to be helping these creatures in such a tangible and immediate way, yet we were saddened by the reality of how frequent this accident happens. We are grateful that the kids were able to participate and feel the euphoria of helping these innocent creatures. We hope that this video might inspire you to donate to your local organizations and seek opportunities to volunteer.

Timeless

That’s an adjective I love.  It describes moments in life I most cherish.  There are places, people and memories that feel absolutely timeless to me: Canyon Lodge, the turn of the century fishing lodge/club in the Agawa Canyon my parents lucked into.  The Buckhorn, Bruce and Tiffany’s log cabin staring out over the islands and Mount Baker.  Listening to Big 10 football in my neighbor Bill’s shop while he builds his next gorgeous wooden day sailer.  Playing basketball on the dirt floor in the old white barn in Williamston where I grew up.  Those moments are special. They are truly few, and often very far between.  Years.  But I hope to never forget them.  They aren’t just good memories, they are memories that almost defy a temporal label.  They could’ve existed or happend decades or even centuries ago.  You are fully in the moment, and, for me, they are associated with places that don’t require electricity, like the top of a mountain or the ring of a campfire.  They feel like the types of moments we have woven into our DNA over millenia.

The other night I was lucky enough to share one with my family and friends in the cockpit of Lyrae.  One becalmed day Adam decided our journey needed to commemorated in a sea shanty.  So mid-passage he got to work song writing.  And of course Bruce can play anything on the guitar, so he whipped up a tune.  For a good afternoon or two they were seen conspiring in the cockpit with pencils, a songbook and guitars.  And so it was,  after finishing our passage, feasting at a restaurant, and finally showering up, I found our myself in the cockpit, late at night, singing along with the first ever performance of “That Northwind Ain’t so Foul,” surrounded  by my kids, my wife, and my best friends.  All singing.  Coral sang (no surprise).  The girls sang.  Sierra was loud. LJ harmonized (of course).  Forrest sang proudly and laughed.  Even Murray sang (this may be the first ever recording of Murray singing in his 50+ years of existence).  And Bruce showed us a few of his hard earned magic tricks with knots that had the kids screaming “Again!”  It was special. It was timeless.  It was ours.

Years ago one of my best friends completed a truly epic journey, the type of accomplishment that, when done early in life, leaves one wondering if anything else can ever top it.  I asked him recently why he hadn’t yet written a book.  He answered with a wink: “who said I haven’t?”   More seriously, he went on to say “maybe it’s ok to keep some things just for yourself.  Just for the people that were there.”  I’m starting to appreciate that, the specialness of some of these moments or adventures.  It’s hard, maybe impossible to truly share them.  I realize how confused this sounds as I sit here writing for a family blog. But also, maybe we’ll keep some things that are ours, just ours.  They belong to the crew.  They belong to the family.  They belong to Lyrae.  And they make us who we are.